Earlier this week, I had the pleasure of attending Honest Grapes’ Value Villages of Burgundy tasting at the elegant Café Duke in London. It was a relaxed evening filled with exceptional wines, expert insights, and a reminder that Burgundy doesn’t always have to cost a fortune.
Nathan Hill, Honest Grapes’ founder and Burgundy enthusiast, took us on a journey through some of the region’s lesser-known villages and up-and-coming winemakers. Alongside him were notable guest producers Alexandra Wilson, the team from d’Alussia, and the talented Benoit Girardin. Together, they showcased what makes the 2023 Burgundy vintage so exciting: a combination of quality, accessibility, and yes—great value.
The Beauty of the 2023 Vintage
Nathan described 2023 as “dangerously drinkable,” and after tasting through the wines, I can see why. The growing season avoided the extreme heat of previous years like 2019 and 2020, creating wines that are ripe and full of fruit but still fresh and vibrant. Producers worked carefully to manage the bumper crop, ensuring the higher yields didn’t dilute quality. As a result, the wines are beautifully balanced, with plenty of character and a sense of place.
The whites impressed with their elegance and precision, offering floral aromatics and lovely minerality. Meanwhile, the reds showcased bright fruit flavours—like red cherries, juicy raspberries—and silky tannins. They’re approachable now but have the structure to age gracefully.
Highlights from the Tasting
The lineup included a mix of whites and reds from villages across Burgundy. Here’s a quick snapshot of what was on offer:
Reds
- Edouard Delaunay: Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Le Village,’ Marsannay ‘Les Cras,’ and Santenay Premier Cru ‘Beauregard.’
- Domaine Clos de la Chapelle: Pommard Premier Cru ‘Les Chanlins’ and Volnay Premier Cru ‘Santenots du Milieu.’
- Domaine Benoit Girardin: Santenay Rouge, Pommard, and Santenay Premier Cru ‘La Maladière.’
- Domaine Francois Raquillet: Mercurey Rouge Vieilles Vignes and Mercurey Rouge Premier Cru ‘Vasées.’
- Domaine Rossignol-Trapet: Beaune Premier Cru ‘Teurons.’
Whites
- Domaine du Pavillon: Meursault ‘Les Criots.’
- Domaine Benoit Girardin: Savigny-Les-Beaune Vieilles Vignes Blanc.
- Domaine de Montille: Monthelie Premier Cru ‘Les Duresses’ and Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru ‘Sous Frétille.’
- Domaine Saumaize-Michelin: Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Crus (La Roche, Pentacrine, and Maréchaude).
The diversity of styles was incredible, from the bright, juicy reds of Mercurey to Meursault’s creamy, mineral-driven whites.
My Top Picks
Among a stellar lineup, two wines truly stood out:
- Edouard Delaunay – Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Le Village’ This red Pinot Noir was elegant in a glass. Bursting with ripe cherry and raspberry, it had a hint of spice and an earthy finish that added complexity. Silky tannins and perfect balance made it an absolute joy to drink.
- Domaine du Pavillon – Meursault’ Les Criots’ This Chardonnay was luxurious yet refreshing. Creamy lemon curd and toasted hazelnuts were balanced by vibrant acidity, creating an indulgent and lively wine. It lingered beautifully on the palate—an absolute showstopper.
Nathan’s Tips for Finding Value
One of the evening’s biggest takeaways was Nathan’s advice on how to find value in Burgundy, especially for those of us who can’t always stretch to Grand Cru prices:
- Explore lesser-known villages: Villages like Santenay, Monthelie, and Mercurey offer exceptional wines at more approachable price points.
- Seek out lieu-dit wines: These wines come from named vineyard plots that aren’t classified as Premier Cru but often deliver nearly the same quality.
- Focus on producers: A talented winemaker can elevate even entry-level wines. Names like Benoit Girardin, Francois Raquillet, and Edouard Delaunay stood out for their consistency and style.
- Don’t wait too long: Many of the 2023 wines are ready to enjoy now, so you don’t need to hold onto them for decades before opening.
Why This Event Stood Out
What made this tasting so special was its focus on approachability in terms of price and the wines themselves. Burgundy often feels like a world of intimidating names and sky-high prices, but this event reminded me there’s incredible value if you know where to look. Much as I’m a self-confessed wine snob, I can still appreciate the magic of a good wine maker’s craft.
The wines we tasted were full of personality, showcasing their unique terroirs and the craftsmanship of the winemakers behind them. Whether it was a silky Nuits-Saint-Georges or a creamy Meursault, each wine had its own story to tell.
A big thank you to Honest Grapes for hosting such a fun and insightful evening. If the 2023 vintage is anything to go by, Burgundy has an exciting future ahead, and I can’t wait to see what’s next.
Have you explored any hidden gems from Burgundy?
